Autumn Cooking

Stick your nose into a sack of cloves and you will understand why ancient mariners claimed to smell the approach of the clove islands while still far out to sea. A terrific and much-used pungent addition to Christmas ham and baked goods, stewed and pickled fruit and vegetables, cakes, pastries and biscuits, German Glühwein (also known as mulled wine), and many North African spice blends. Also known as: Nelke, ting-hiang.

Until the mid-19th century, the Banda Islands were the world's only source of nutmeg and mace, harvested from the nutmeg tree. This nutmeg, ground from the highest grade of fruit, boasts strong aroma and flavour. Its resinous, sweet, heady fragrance adds depth and character to cakes, pies and all manner of baked goods. It also complements savoury cheese and cream dishes, and vegetables such as spinach, carrot and pumpkin.

With a plethora of imaginative names in different languages, the Italian - and most common - name, 'porcini' means 'piglets' in English. When dried, the flavour of these much relished mushrooms intensifies to a meaty, creamy and nutty palate, with an aroma reminiscent of sourdough.

The ancient Greeks believed that thyme was a source of courage; they used it in baths and burnt it as incense in temples. Today, thyme is widely cultivated and used for its heady floral lemon scent.